Felted coat summary

Region Summary
Banat Thick fulled coat may be green, grey, blue, and were decorated with multicoloured ornaments.
Lugoj, Timiș Dark woollen suman with dark embroidery.
Câmpia Banatului Richly ornamented șuba or duruț which are made of dimie similar to those worn in Câmpie Dunării. Older coats were in white colour, but more recently green or blue cloth was used. Duruț overcoats have gussets, a large square collar, wide sleeves, and are decorated with black braid on the large collar which occupies a third part of the upper back, on cuffs, on front and on middle of back.
Caransebeș Suman made of white woollen cloth decorated with black braid and embroidery on the front edges, cuffs and pockets.
Bihor, Arad, Zărand, and Apuseni Mts. Fabric overcoats (sumane) worn by men & women are usually made of white woollen fabric, and can have wide gussets, and are decorated with red, blue and green cloth with silk embroidery and motifs in coloured cord.
Aleșd, Crișul Repede, Bihor Black sumane.
Năsăud Blue cloth coat, decorated with velvet, cord and silver clasps, or plain black, brown or grey sumane. The colour of the coat can be a mark of social standing e.g. black sumane were worn by border guard peasants.
Apuseni mountains Țundre – knee length coat worn by men and women has wide sleeves made of white pănură (dimie) cloth, or grey with coloured tassels. Țundră in postav made from 19th century has decoration in coloured thick cloth in red and black, appliquéd on the edges of the gussets and the sleeves.
Csik In winter men wore a type of coat with a red collar, or the poor wore a long coat of brown cloth.
Hațeg White cloth suman with narrow ornaments on edges and collar.
Hațeg and Petroșani. Șuba înfundată cut with gussets in front (like a dress), appears only in Hațeg and Petroșani.
Pădureni Șuba, overcoat of white woollen cloth, ornaments on edge in cord or cloth.
Hunedoara White woven coats worn which resemble Moldavian coats in shape.
Fagaraș Recălele (long aba coats).
Zona Târnavelor Zeghe – worn by men and women. These are cut of 9 pieces of pănură (dimie) in white, brown or black, and have lateral gussets and wide sleeves. They are worn on shoulders with sleeves to the back.
Țara Oltului Recăl, worn, both by men and women. 2 types: Recăl hoizănesc, worn in Avrig, Sibiu was waist length made of grey or black cloth (pănură) without collar. It is worn on shoulders without putting on the arms. Recăl românesc worn by women was long and made of black cloth (pănură), lined with coloured cloth (pânză) and edged with black velvet. Mens’ version was shorter, buttoned up at the front, with pockets and buttons, with a collar of lamb’s fur. Pieces of red cloth approx. 10cm wide. are appliquéd on the lining of the front and on the lapels,
Oltenia Dimie were white, and decorated with braiding and subtle coloured decoration.
Gorj Waist length coat in white woollen cloth with black braiding.
Olt Giubea – sleeveless hip length coat of homespun white woollen cloth decorated with red braid.
Red greatcoat and trousers worn by coach drivers (surugii).
Short cojoc – Hip length sheepskin coat decorated in rosettes and spirals as in Romanați.
Long sleeved calf length white woollen cloth coat decorated in light black embroidery.
Romanați Cojoc – long sleeved, skirted hip length cloth coat, either in white woollen material decorated with red, black and green spirals or in black woollen material decorated with rosettes and spirals in red and green.
Giubea – long sleeveless white cloth coat, decorated on front worn by men & women.
Epingle – long man’s coat with hood.
Vâlcea Șuba Long coats in dimie, cut in straight pieces with added gussets, and a narrow collar. In south of zone șuba are woven in cotton. Șuba are decorated with appliquéd black braid and embroidery.
Muntenia Dimie are white, grey or brown and are decorated with black braid. Thick fulled coat may be red.
Câmpia Munteniei, Oltenia and in Dobrogea, Ipingea – Long coat made of dimie sometimes with hood worn in Câmpia Munteniei, Oltenia and in Dobrogea, decorated with braid. This appears frequently in commemorative pictures of peasants in Oltenia 18th to 19th century in Câmpofeni, Schela, Șomănești (Gorj), Horezu (Vâlcea) etc. This shows oriental influence from 17th to 19th century (Ottoman) originally used at court and later in countryside.
Ialomița, Ilfov, Teleorman Imurlac – Long coat in coloured dimie worn decorated with braid and multicoloured cloth. In NW part of the zone imurlac has more sober decoration. In villages situated north of l Snagov lake, it was covered with ornamental motifs in thin braid in red, yellow, green, blue and white and metal buttons, with a large multicoloured tassel top of hood.
Țara Loviștei Zeghe – dark.
Vlașca, Imurlucuri (found in Vlașca and Dobrogea).
Dobrogea Imurlucuri Ghebă / mantă, coat worn over waistcoat with large gussets and tied with a belt.
Epingea or imurlac found near Danube – names show Oriental, Turko-Balkan origin. These coats are richly decorated and can be seen in first half of 19th century prints of surugius – mail coach drivers.
Moldavia Thick fulled black, brown or grey braided coats, sometimes with hoods and wide gussets, 3 categories of sumane worn according to the season.
Suman scurt “sumăiaș” or “sumănică” worn in autumn or spring,
Ghenucher worn later in autumn
Suman lung worn in winter over a short cojoc or minteanul.
Rădăuți Suman from Bucovina coats (made in Rădăuți co-op) were brown, black or grey and decorated with black, brown or grey woollen braid, on the edges of the front, collar and pockets. In some cases have a wide collar that can be turned into a hood.
Roman Sumane made of white cloth decorated with black cording.
Central Moldavia Sumane made of silver-coloured (greyish) wool.
Published on 24th February 2018