Fleecy Jackets – gubă (pl. gube)

“guba” from Maramureș

Hip length fleecy jackets with sleeves called gubă are worn by both men and women in Maramureș and Oaș. These are made of tufted white, grey or black wool, and form an integral piece of winter costume in north west Romania due to the long cold winters in these areas. Gube are worn by men and women and are worn by brides during wedding ceremonies, irrespective of season.

The material used to make gubă is obtained by two techniques, either by introducing strands of wool into woven material or by combing woven material with a currycomb to draw out the fleece. The material is then carded in the whirlpool (vâltoare), where it stays for 10 to 16 hours in the summer or 36 hours in winter to allow the oil to come out of the wool.

The length of gubă is equal to its breadth. It is cut in rectangular pieces, is open at front, and has sleeves. It is tied at the neck with two laces. Gube are made from two identical woven pieces of fabric, one used for the chest and back, and the other, for the sleeves and insets. These jackets are often lined with printed cotton material and can be edged with black velvet along the front opening, ends of sleeves and pocket edges.

Bârsana, Maramureș

Waistcoats made using the same technique are also worn in Maramureș. These can be made of black, brown or fawn wool and are decorated with embroidery in toning coloured wool and appliqué using small pieces of leather and strips of black velvet.