| Region | Summary |
|---|---|
| Banat | Smocking stitch called crețuri bănățene made with a similar technique to punct Bănățean or Nemțoanele. |
| Crișana | |
| Bihor | Local names for decorative smocking is brățăriu pe gros. |
| Maramureș, Oaș, | |
| Maramureș | Narrow gathered shoulders of womens cămăși and ciupag are decorated with crețuri de Maramureș which is unique in that it is worked on drawn threads. Groups of 4- 5 warp threads are pulled out, leaving groups of 4-5 threads between these rows, totalling between 4-8 rows. Then înaintea acului stitch is worked over the drawn threads in 2 parallel rows. Stitches used called măruntă, ochiuți, and rupturiți. These are worked in linen thread or yellow cotton. Older style cămăși have a narrow row of fabric about 1cm wide at the neck which is decorated with tiny motifs, either geometric of stylised flowers in polychrome colours. The stitches are called tras or trăsură. Cuffs are gathered and narrow bands of geometric embroidery, 1- 2cm wide are worked over the gathers, similar to alesături in black, pink, yellow coloured thread. The sleeve then can open out into a flounce (bezer) which is decorated with cut white work called ciur împiedicat. |
| Oaș | Crețuri oșenești – the cloth is gathered and decorative motifs in the form of rhomboids are worked across the gathers. |
| Transylvania | Straight stitch (tighel) called ociți. |
| Pădureni | Cross stitch crucea called șinorește în cruci drepte. |
| Bran | Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși. |
| NW Transylvania | Șabac introduced recently. Men’s cămăși have narrow gathered shoulders. |
| Zones of Mărginenii Hațegului, Valea Jiului. | Cross stitch crucea called șinorește în cruci drepte |
| Făgăraș | Crețuri de Făgăraș is used on shirt sleeves and has a honeycomb (fagure) appearance. It is made by creasing the cloth, and decorating the creases with 4-8 rows of înaintea acului stitches. Bright embroidery in vivid colours with predominantly red hues in Făgăraș. |
| Zona Târnavelor, | Local names for decorative smocking is trăsurește pe crețuri. |
| Zona Apuseni, Cluj, Mureș | The neck of women’s cămăși is gathered into a ciupag, and blouse has wide sleeves gathered at the wrists into brataras (bracelets) or larger flounces (fodrăs). The smocking on the ciupag has a variation of the scallop using the iras stitch with meshes in both the upper and lower part of the seam. This is also seen on blouses worn by Hungarians in Cluj country (Hungarian Kalotaszeg).
Cross stitch crucea is called brânește in Apuseni mountains. |
| Câmpia Transilvania | Local names for decorative smocking is lucet. |
| Sibiu | The neck of women’s cămăși is gathered into a narrower variant of a ciupag around Sibiu. Embroidery is in white alternating with black and slight polychrome spots in Marginemea Sibiului.
Punctul ciocănele is found only in Sibiu, and is used for decorating iei (blouses). It is worked in thick black thread using cusătura peste fire, sewing over the threads. It gives the appearance of vertical bands of black braid on the sleeves and front of the blouse. |
| Sibiu, Avrig zone | Bright embroidery in vivid colours with predominantly red hues in geometric and floral motifs. |
| Saxon | Smocking using a geometric pattern is used in certain districts of Banat and Transylvania for gathering material into collars and cuffs. This technique may have been introduced by Saxons. |
| Oltenia | Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăși, catrințe,or vâlnice, from the 19th century. Punct bătrânesc oltenesc can be worked horizontally, vertically or oblique, with the final appearance being ‘in relief’. Cross stitch crucea called șinorește în cruci drepte in zones of Olt, Gorj, Vâlcea. Fine braid (Bucmea) made in special workshops, is sewn on 3 sides of some catrințe |
| Dolj | Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși |
| Gorj | Crețuri gorjenești is worked in vertical stitches similar to that used for shirts in Făgăraș. Schileresc costume worn by men in wealthy villages from the end of the 19th and early 20th century comprises trousers (nădragi), sleeveless jackets (vestă) and coats (mintean) which are decorated with rows of black braid forming special motifs called floricele, ghearele, popcii, floarea, and călărașilor. |
| Mehedinti | Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși |
| Muntenia | Straight stitch (tighel) called piezuri Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăși, veste or fote from the 19th century. |
| Argeș | Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși. |
| Muscel | The local name for punct bătrânesc is punct gras It has both a horizontal and vertical variants. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși. |
| Prahova | Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși. |
| Moldavia | Straight stitch (tighel) called chiezuri.Regional name for decorative smocking is lăncez. Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăși, veste or fote from the 19th century. Punct bătrânesc moldovenesc gives the appearance of joined squares. |
| Bucovina | Embroidery on încreț is in white combined with other colours and small beads are sewn onto this. |
| Buzău, Râmnicu Sărat, Vrancea, Bacău, and Neamț | Sabac is used to decorate men’s and women’s cămășe. |
| Țara Vrancea | Șabac is often used for decoration on ștergar de cap, made of cotton or silk. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși. |
| Dobrogea | Fluteri or paiete silver or gold sequins used on cămăși, catrințe from the 19th century. |
| Câmpia Dunării | Șabac is often used for decoration on ștergar de cap, made of cotton or silk. Beteală is used for decoration on cămăși |