Chemise and blouse summary

Region Summary
Banat
Câmpia Banatului Gold thread decorations on blouses.
Banat, Bistra valley Blouse similar to Pădureni (tablă embroidery on sleeves).
Zona Făget, Banat Tablă embroidery only on sleeves until 1st decade of 20th century. Then altița appears above the tablă. Also in this period the cut of the cămașă was adapted so it was gathered at the shoulders, and a lace frill was added at the neck made of pânza groasă de cinari.
Arad Around Sânicolau Mare cămașă cu platcă called chităarită (cut white work) is worn.
Maramureș, Oaș
Codru White linen blouse decorated with white work, especially on shoulders and yoke.
Oaș Yoked cămașă cu platcă heavily decorated with dark coloured embroidery on yoke and cuffs.
Maramureș Cămașă cu umeraș with square neck, or yoked.
North Transylvania
Cluj, Apuseni and Lăpuș Sleeves with fodor Cămașă cu fodor. Blouse fastens at back and has gathered front which is embroidered along the selvage
South Transylvania
Bran Cămașă încrețită similar to adjacent regions of Muntenia.
Făgăraș Married women – linen with black embroidery and whitework. Modern blouses for young girls have heavy black embroidery on sleeves (tablă) and front, Both had frill at cuffs.
Very old costumes have a very simple blouse sleeves gathered at wrist and little embroidery.
Petroșani Sleeves have large frills at wrist called “fodori” and a horizontal Line of embroidery at elbow level (Șire Peste Cot).
Rimetea Hungarian blouses with embroidery in red on shoulder.
Mureș Blouses similar to Cluj & Apuseni, but cuipag is smaller.
Mărginimea Sibiului Gathered neck white cotton blouse with sleeves gathered into the neck (cămașă cu mâneca din gât) and also just below the elbow then open out into a “flounce” (fodor).
Târnave Sleeve turned back at wrist.
Oltenia Oltenia râuri – diagonal or V shaped with vertical line down centre.
Oltenia & Muntenia (throughout) Decorations with altița, increț and râuri.
Muntenia Muntenia – râuri – vertical wider bands.
Argeș Sleeves turned up at wrist to show embroidery on wrong side.
Argeș – Mușcel Older blouses use striped material.
Buzau Red woollen embroidery, straight râuri.
Buzau – Râmnicu Sărat Red woollen embroidery, diagonal râuri, frills at wrists.
Ilfov Plain white chemise, little decoration, in some cases gold or silver sequins (fluturi) attached.
Prahova Cămașă încrețită with red and black decoration.
Teleorman Pink / red /gold embroidery, vertical râuri on sleeves and vertical lines of embroidery on front of blouse, decoration with gold or silver sequins (fluturi).
Vlașca Gold or silver sequins (fluturi) were used for decoration.
Dobrogea Simple yoked blouse (cămașă cu umeraș), thin material, open sleeves, lines of delicate embroidery, older version has less embroidery.
North Moldavia
Rădăuăți Blouse made of thin flax, hemp or cotton, gathered round neck on cord. Sleeve decoration is made up of – altița – shoulder piece, încreț – small monochrome ornamental band, râuri – embroidery down sleeve – diagonal on this case.
Câmpulung Moldovenesc Colour scheme of decoration brighter and more rich than rest of Bucovina
Central and south Moldavia
Iași Older style simple cut blouses worn with ghiordan
Gyimes Embroidered shirt with laced wide cuffs, held in at elbow. Diamond patterns are embroidered on back.
Vrancea Older style blouse has twisted sleeves, which are rolled up so râuri look like spirals, newer style had gold, black and coloured embroidery, square geometric motifs. More recent shirt have gatheredneck cămașă încrețită made of white linen, with yellow woven stripes. It is gathered round the neck and decorated with large black embroidered motifs.
Moldavian Csango Women’s shirts are usually embroidered in red (or black) with blue band between horizontal band on upper arms and diagonal strips on sleeves. Shoulders and sleeves are embroidered first and sewn together after. Thick (woollen) embroidery. No cuffs, sleeves gathered in with string at wrist.

 

Published on 11th February 2018