Linen, velvet and silk fabrics

In some areas of eastern Thrace and Dobrudzha men’s sleeveless waistcoats and jackets were made from thinner red checked or striped material. In the north east these were often padded for extra warmth.

From the late 19th century padded black or maroon sleeveless waistcoats made of velvet became popular with women and men in north eastern Bulgaria. These are often decorated with black beads and buttons. The men’s waistcoats fit into the waist, and overlap at the font and button up in the same style as the waistcoats worn with chernodreshnik. The women’s ones are slightly flared and reach just below waist level.

In western Bulgaria around Trun men’s long white sleeveless jackets, made of woven linen or cotton fabric, and edged with a narrow row of dark braid, were worn with a red sash wound round the waist over the jacket.

In the eastern Rhodopes a waist length long sleeved quilted jacket (anteriya, zaboun, or kaftan) open at the front was introduced relatively recently replacing the ancient klashnitsi and djubeta for wear by women with the saya and one apron costume. This was usually made of bright coloured material in light yellow, orange, or green. Jackets in this style were also worn by men in eastern Thrace and Dobrudzha and were made of silk or woollen fabric in bright colours.

In the Maritsa valley and along the Sredna Gora mountains women wore a sleeveless waist length jacket with the saya costume which can be sleeveless, or have short or long sleeves. This was made of hand-woven or manufactured black, dark blue or dark red fabric and was trimmed with linear woollen braids, and decorated with embroidery and leather appliqué.

An ankle length outer garment (djoube) which was open down the font and decorated with embroidery or edged with fur was worn with sukman costumes. Djoube was made of thick woollen material for daily wear but for weddings was made from red silk or cotton, and had gussets. It was decorated with braid and embroidery round the neck, along the gussets and on the sleeve edges. A predominantly red, richly decorated waist band richly was worn wound tightly round waist.

Published on 7th June 2018