Fabric waistcoats and jackets

Fabric jackets – chebău, mintean (pl. mintene)

Long fabric costs called mintean are worn in Gorj, and Mehedinți. These are made of white thick woollen cloth, and are in some cases decorated with black braiding based on the style of costume adopted by a freeholder Dincă Schileru in first half of 19th century.

In Gorj a coat called chebău is worn on working days. This is made of white thick woollen cloth (dimie) and is hip length, straight cut, with lateral gussets, a high collar and wide sleeves.

Fabric waistcoats

Fabric waistcoats made of various materials are worn by men or women in many zones of the country. This type of waistcoat is usually waist length or slightly longer.

White woollen cloth – chintus and ilic (pl. ilice)

Oltenia region

In Oltenia, Banat, Arad and Hunedoara a waistcoat of pănură, the same white felted woollen cloth as the trousers is worn by men. This is called ilic and is decorated with black braid in patterns derived from the uniforms of the Hapsburg army. A similar style of waistcoat called chintus is worn in Banat but these are very richly decorated with coloured braid, embroidery and appliquéd in coloured thick cloth.

Dark woollen cloth – giubea

Dark cloth waistcoats called giubea are worn by men in Dobrogea, and southern Muntenia.  These are made from woollen cloth woven using four heddles. The cloth has a, dark colour background such as brown, dark-red, violet blue, black and may be striped în coaste or have patterns in the shape of rhomboids like eyes în ozoare. These are decorated with appliquéd black braid and have a round neck and are buttoned up with two rows of buttons – similar to those worn in northern Bulgaria indicating Ottoman influence.

Black woollen cloth – laibăr

Arefu, Argeș

In northern Muntenia (Râmnicu Sărat, Buzău, Prahova, Muscel), Oaș and parts of Southern Transylvania (Bran, Hațeg, around Hunedoara, Sibiu and Câmpia Transilvaniei men’s waistcoats (laibăr) made of plain black felted wool (postav), decorated with discrete black braid decoration were worn from 19th century.

Women’s black velvet ilice

Miheșu de Câmpie

In southern Transylvania and north Muntenia black velvet ilice have replaced sheepskin waistcoats for women’s festive wear. Those from north Muntenia were often decorated with small brightly coloured beads. In richer areas ilice were also be made of silk, fur or red or brown velvet. These versions were influenced by town fashions.

Region Summary
Banat
Lugoj, Banat Cloth vest called a chintuș decorated with black braid is worn by men.
Oaș and Maramureș Waistcoats are crocheted in multicoloured wool.
Transylvania
Sibiu Men – Black fabric waistcoat (laibăr) worn since 19th century.
Women – black wollen cloth or velvet waistcoats (ilic) worn since later 19th century.
Pădureni Men wear white woollen fabric vest called laibăr, decorated on edge with rows of cord or cloth, which show the age of the man!.
Oltenia
Gorj Ilic – waistcoat made from white woollen cloth with black braiding.
Dobrogea Dark double breasted coloured waistcoat called guibea, decorated with black braid.
Moldavia
Vrancea Women – Black woollen cloth or velvet waistcoat (ilic)
Men – Black fabric waistcoat (laibăr)
Published on 15th December 2017