Sheepskin jackets

Jackets (kozhuh) and waistcoats (kozhuhche) made of sheepskin, usually worn with the fur on the inside are found in the north of Bulgaria along the Danube plain, and are similar to jackets worn across the Danube in Romania. The long sleeved jackets were either long or waist length. Sleeveless waistcoats worn by men were waist length and those worn by women reached just below the waist. In some cases these had several gathers at the centre back and were called burcheni.

Sheepskin jackets and waistcoats made for festive wear were decorated with coloured wool embroidery and appliqué pieces of coloured leather. The front edges were often edged with strips of black fur.

Waist length jackets made of sheepskin called gounya were also worn by both men and women in the Maritsa valley and Chirpan. These could be worn with the fur either inside or out. Jackets made from animal fur were sometimes worn in north east Bulgaria around Tarnovo and Ruse. Those made in workshops in Tarnovo were exported all over the Ottoman Empire.

Published on 7th June 2018